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Tip from Jerry
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   2 ea. #4-40 X 1" brass screws
   2 ea. #4-40 brass nuts
   2 ea. #18 gauge wire terminals
   2" #18 gauge insulated copper wire

   Soldering Gun and Solder
   #4-40 Tap and Handle
   Electric Drill
   5/64 and 3/16" Drill Bits

   1. Pry open 4 clips on the switch housing.
   2. Carefully remove black plastic section from housing.
   3. Clean grease from bottom (contact side) of plastic section.
   4. Scribe two lines through the contacts lengthwise on the contact side.
   5. Scribe a horizontal line 5/16" above the top set of contacts (Used for the back up       
       lights).See fig. # 1 .
   6. Drill two 5/64" holes through the intersecting scribe lines.Using the 3/16 drill bit,
       drill a small dimple on the contact side for the screw head to fit down in.
   7. Using a #4-40 tap, thread the two holes through the plastic. 

   8. Drill a slight counterbore in the plastic section on the contact side with a 3/16"
       drill bit.This dimple provides a resting point on the contact for the sliding spring
       loaded switch.
   9. Grind or machine the heads of the two #4-40 X 1" brass screws until the screwdriver
       slot is no longer visible.The head should be around 3/16" in diameter after grinding.
  10. Thread the screws though the plastic section, starting from the contact side.When
        the screws are sticking out enough,place two #4-40 nuts on the threaded end and
        tighten them up against each other.Using a small wrench,turn the screws and snug
        them up until the heads of the screws are flush with the plastic and sitting down in 
        in the counterbore.
   11. Remove the double nuts,solder a jumper wire to each of the neutral wires (Red-    
        Blue Strip) and connect each wire to the new screws above them with a wire
        Terminal.Put a nut on each screw and tighten them,making sure the wire is only
         touching that post.See figure #2.
   12. Cut the screws off above the nut with a pair of diagonal cutters.
   13. Reasemble the contact plate housing after a film of grease has been applied to 
        the contact side.Make sure the gasket is in place.
   14. Re-crimp the metal housing to the plastic plate.
   15.Test with an ohm meter before re-installing the switch on the car. 
        When done you have added two new contacts and jumped the contacts over
        to the park position.


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   Correcting the clearence on the trunk lid swinging arm so it doesn't scrape the paint off.
1- Drive a small screwdriver in at the top of the hinge just above the opening or stop that
    is cut into the swing arm.
2- Spread the hinge arm out away from the stationary part enough to get a pry bar in.
3- Pry the hinge arm outward away from the hinge base at least one inch or more. As you
   pry it out you will see the hinge stop on the hinge arm.What you are doing is bending
   the hinge arm to compensate for the wear in the hinge pivot pins.
4- After you pry that side out drive a wedge (large chiesel) in to keep it spread and repeat
    the # 2 and 3 operation on the other side.

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   After you do the above raise and lower the lid to see if it is clearing as it travels up and down. Notice the clearence on the picture above.

                                   Putting the side glass in the door

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Peeling the glass from the channel

   I'm not going to get into putting new glass into the frame.If you go to "Related links" other people explain it well. The biggest problem I had was getting the glass out of the bottom channel.The method I used was a 1/4 piece of steel rod with a screwdriver end  ground on it.I put 2 pieces of plywood on the glass and held it in the vise.With a little patience it seperated fairly easy by putting a vise grips on the end and tapping gently.


    It took me 6 hrs. to put my first window in the door.I thought I had it figured out but I spent 8 hrs. putting the 2nd one in.The biggest problem was getting this part in which I'll call the rear channel.Click on the picture and notice the boss at the top.Make sure the threads are clean and oiled on the stud and turn it in as far as possible.


                I found it was important to put the parts in the door in the right order:
   1. Make sure the felt in the runners are in good condition and the guides are clean and 
   2. Put the regular in first and loosely attach with the 6 retaining screws .
   3. Position the division bar and vent window into the door.
   4. Position the glass assembly in the door.
   5. Raise the window to the highest point and prop with a stick.
   6. Install the rear run assembly making sure the guide rollers enter the track and the 
       window frame into the rear run channel.
   7. Attach the rear run assembley and the division bar with proper hardware.
   8. Finish by assembling the regular arm and plate assembley putting the rollers into the 
      proper guides.
   9. Adjust the rear run upper stud,install and adjust the upper glass stops.The stops must
      be adjusted with the top up to provide a good weatherseal.